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Pinot Gris Greywacke 2017
Greywacke is the winery of Kevin Judd, who was winemaker at Cloudy Bay for 25 years. In 2009 he set up for himself, and sources select parcels of grapes from growers around Marlborough. I reckon his wines consistently beat his famous alma mater for quality, interest and value for money. We met Kevin and his wife Beverley several times during our 2014 tours to New Zealand, and he has spoken at wine events I have run in the UK.
Pinot Gris is one of my favourite grape varieties. It also masquerades as Pinot Grigio – the same variety, but made in a completely different way that is light, fresh and innocuous compared with the stunning richness, complexity and subtlety of this wine. Wines like this are also made in Alsace, Germany, Friuli, Slovenia and New Zealand where winmakers are demonstrating they can do a lot more than make crowd pleasing Sauvignon Blanc.
Grapes were harvested when really ripe (benefitting from the intense Marlborough sunshine and a season that despite earthquakes, rain and wine allowed full ripening) and so achieved both high alcohol and residual sugar of 10g/l (officially medium dry, but it tastes off dry because of its acidity).
This is not a dessert wine. It’s delicious by itself but would be stunning with a charcuterie platter, its acidity and tantalising sweetness bringing out the best in umami rich foods like salami, mushrooms and blue cheeses.
Tasted at our March 2021 Teddington and Richmond Wine Society tastings and a bit of a revelation.
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